The Palio di Siena: Medieval Horse Race Where Districts Battle for Glory
Twice a year, Siena's Piazza del Campo changes into a chaotic mediaeval warfare for the Palio, a bareback horse race that has remained mostly unchanged since 1656. This is more than just a sporting event; it is a visceral expression of neighbourhood identity, with centuries-old rivalries erupting into 90 seconds of tremendous competition.Siena is divided into 17 districts, each having their own flag, anthem, church, and museums.
Residents are baptised into their contrada and become members for life; it is a deeper identification than family. Only ten contrades compete in each Palio, which is decided by rotation and lottery. The days leading up to the race are filled with extravagant mediaeval pomp, including flag-throwers dressed in Renaissance costumes, blessing ceremonies where horses enter churches and community banquets attended by thousands.
The race itself is purposefully dangerous: jockeys ride bareback for three laps around the sloped, sand-covered plaza, taking abrupt turns and frequently falling. Contrary to popular belief, a horse without a rider can still win—it is even regarded more fortunate. Winning provides year-long bragging rights and passionate celebrations that can last weeks. In its museum, the winning contrada displays its silk palio (flag), as well as victories from decades past. Witnessing the Palio is to see mediaeval emotion alive in the modern world—raw, unfiltered, and completely true.
